This Brewtus Ten was built completely from 2″x2″ steel square tubing based on Lonie’s original plans. Let’s face it, if we didn’t need it for brewing, we could always use it as a car stand. This brew stand was built to last.
From left to right, our Brewtus Ten beer brewing system consists of a boil kettle, mash tun, and hot liquor tank. All three of which were created from modified kegs with tig welded fittings.
The boil kettle is quite simple. It consisted of a ball valve, dip tub, and a mash screen. I just toss whole hops into the boil and the mash screen filters them out.
The Mash Tun is the heart of this system. Inside the mash tun is a stainless steel false bottom. The outside bottom of the Mash Tun consists of a simple ball valve and thermometer. The top portion of the Mash Tun consists of a stainless steel tee which accomodates a temperature probe. For more pictures of our Mash Tun, visit this link. Mash Tun
The Boil Kettle incorporates a ball valve, thermometer, and a port for a temperature probe. I created a custom welded bracket for a float switch. The float switch turns the pump off when the water reaches the predefinded water level.
I initially built the Brewtus Ten with two ASCO Valves. I was concerened with the pilot gas while using the ASCO Valve. If the pilot light burned out, the ASCO valve will still allow propane to flow. This was a safety issue to me. I changed the ASCO valves over to the Honeywell Gas Valves. This system uses a thermocouple. If the pilot fails, gas will not flow. This system is similar to how a gas water heater functions.
My system uses two March Brand magnetic pumps. If I could justify the extra money, I would purchase self priming pumps.
I started my control system using Love controls. The love controls worked well but I wanted more control and automation over the entire system. I wanted something that would control the pumps and provide me with more precise controls. I purchased a BCS-460 control system from Embedded Control Concepts. The BCS-460 allows me complete control over the entire brewing process. Follow this link for more information on the BCS-460. BCS 460
Authors bio is coming up shortly. 
I will get some pictures up for you to see. I have recently added the autosprage and have not been completely sold on it. I have not had the results I would have expected the first few runs with it. Prior to that, I custom built sparge ring. That seemed to work very well.
I posted a picture for you in the Gallery. Just click on the “photos” link at the very top of the page. This was from when I first implemented my mash tun. It has been revised a bit but it is the same idea. The new revision has two rods supporting the sparge ring.
Great site! Two questions:
What model of Honeywell Gas Valves are you using?
Should I be using 1/4 inch tubing for my LP gas lines or 1/2?
Thanks,
david F.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ve built several different stands for myself and other brewers. The last one I built I used the Robert Shaw model 700-400 gas valve. I really like this valve better than the Honeywell. The reason being is the On/Off/Pilot selector switch on the Robert Shaw feels more solid than on the Honeywell . These valves are 1/2″ input and 3/4″ output and come with a bushing to reduce the output to 1/2″.
I usually use 1/2″ black pipe for my main propane connections and then reduce from there. I like the idea of the 1/4 inch tubing and considered it on my next brewing stand. Just remember that you will need a low pressure .5psi regulator somewhere prior to the gas valve.